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This post is sponsored by my client, Dover Publications. I’m honored to be working with Dover again to promote The Epicurean and to share with you this 1893 vintage recipe for traditional coconut custard pie. Click for more old fashioned pie recipes.
Books first, pie second. But that pie, y’all.
The Epicurean, by Charles Ranhofer
What an incredible book this is. It’s an encyclopedia. It is a window into another century. It is a snapshot of how hotel kitchens served their guests 150 years ago. The Epicurean is a massive tome full of goodies.
Over 3500 recipes.
It is mind-boggling and glorious. While it seems aspirational, it is also a manual, that should you choose to study it, will help you become a better baker and cook.
The original book, curated by Delmonico’s superstar chef of the day, Charles Ranhofer, opens a door to culinary history in New York Century during the latter half of the 19th century.
Not to mention the classics that Ranhofer perfected during his tenure at Delmonico’s:
Seriously, y’all. If you are a fan of culinary history, of cookbooks, and of proven recipes; if you would like ideas for menus for fancy buffets or parties; if you want to expand your knowledge and idea of what a cake can be or what you can do with an egg, The Epicurean is a book you will turn to again and again.
Please enter the giveaway at the end of this post.
A Peek Inside The Epicurean
Okay, so I’ve told you about the book in broad strokes. But let’s just take a look at what is really inside. The table of contents.
First, let’s look at the complete title and subtitle:
A Complete Treatise of
Analytical and Practical Studies
Table and Wine Service, How to Prepare and Cook Dishes, an Index for Marketing,
a Great Variety of Bills of Fare for Breakfasts, Luncheons, Dinners,
Suppers, Ambigus, Buffets, etc., and a Selection of
Interesting Bills of Fare of Delmonico’s,
Franco-American Culinary Encyclopedia
By Charles Ranhofer,
Former Chef of Delmonico’s,
Honorary President of the “Société Culinaire Philanthropique” of New York
Illustrated with 800 Plates.
See what I mean? These days, a cookbook cover may shout “Step by step photos!” but there is really nothing as exhaustive as The Epicurean.
The Epicurean covers it all from table service and bills of fare to utensils, soups, garnishing, cold and hot sides, all manner of meats–seriously–vegetables, eggs, hot and cold sweet entremets, pastry, bakery, ices, wines and more. Plus, you get to see all of Delmonico’s menus throughout the years. It’s incredible. Seriously.
Traditional Coconut Custard Pie: The Original Recipes
I call this a traditional coconut custard pie, because I really don’t think it gets more traditional than this. I made both the pastry dough and the custard from recipes in The Epicurean. The results?
A super-buttery, very sturdy-but-not-tough pastry filled with rich, silky-smooth, lightly lemon-scented custard and a thick layer of coconut. The pie divides into layers, so you get creamy smooth, topped with coconutty-crunchy-chewy. For such a simple pie, it packs a lot in the flavor and texture departments!
Before I share the conventional recipes, I’m going to let you see the recipes as I followed them in The Epicurean.
First, the pastry, or “Foundation Paste.” Ranhofer offers three versions in The Epicurean, and I chose to make Foundation Paste, Fine for the base of my traditional coconut pie. Incidentally, coconut is spelled “cocoanut” in this book. Which I kind of love.
And here’s the recipe for the traditional coconut custard pie as written out in The Epicurean:
I just love that these recipes are written out just like you would tell someone how to make your famous chicken salad if they asked. “First you take a chicken, cover it with water, and poach until done. Then let it cool and shred the meat….” I can almost guarantee you that, if you asked me how to make a cake, I wouldn’t start by spouting off a list of ingredients. Conventional recipe writing makes it easier to make a shopping list, but it’s not really how we cook. The recipes in The Epicurean are written just as we’d do them. I love it.
Can I Really Make This Pie Based on the Directions in The Photos?
Yes, you really can. I did. You will probably want to read them few a couple of times. And note that everything is expressed in weights, so you will need an accurate kitchen scale (which you totally should already own). You will also have to trust the “feel,” especially of the dough. The custard is very easy to make.
I ended up only using about 3/4 of the flour and maybe half the water, and it worked out perfectly. But, if you are not really familiar with making pie crust, you may be better off using a recipe that is written out conventionally and has been exhaustively tested, just to make sure you are successful. I recommend my friend and pie guru Kate McDermott’s book, Art of the Pie. You will find truly foolproof recipes for pie crust between those covers.
How Long Will It Take to Make a Coconut Custard Pie?
The “foundation paste” took me about 10 minutes to make, and then it rests in the fridge for about 15 minutes. Once it rested, you roll it out (it is super easy to roll–I really loved this dough!), line the pie pan and make some sort of decorative edge. In Ranhofer’s words, you “raise up the edges, pinch all around, and leave stand in a cool place for twenty minutes in a cool place.”
While the dough was standing in a cool place (the fridge), I mixed up the custard, which literally took maybe 5 minutes. I let it sit until the 20 minutes were up (I actually think I gave it 30), spread a thick layer of desiccated coconut on the bottom, and then slowly strained the custard into it. It baked about 45 minutes at 350F, and then it took awhile to cool. But I think serving it warm–not hot–is an excellent plan.
So, from start to finish without breaks (which you are allowed to take), plan on about 1 1/2-2 hours from no dough to pie out of the oven. Then add on cooling time.
When is Coconut Custard Pie Done?
Coconut custard–or any other filling really–will continue to cook once you remove it from the oven, so use an instant read thermometer to pull it from the oven when the center reads 160F or when there is about a silver dollar-sized bit in the center that is still a little jiggly.
How Long will Custard Pie Keep?
Any egg-based pie should be fine for a week, but my Serve Safe rules say to ditch any egg-based foods after 3 days to be on the safe side. Some of the liquid caught up in the denatured egg proteins can start to leak out after 2-3 days, so you may end up with a bit of watery syrup in your pie pan, and that will make your crust soggy.
So, for aesthetic reasons as well as food safety reasons, you really should plan on finishing the pie off in just a couple of days.
Is There a Difference Between Coconut Custard and Coconut Cream Pie?
In short, yes.
I’ll tell you the steps in making each, and you will be able to see the difference.
To Make Custard Pie
- Line pan with pie dough
- Pour in the custard filling (eggs, sugar, flavorings, maybe some starch, etc)
- Bake until the crust is golden brown and the filling has set.
- Chill in the fridge.
To Make Cream Pie
- Line pan with pie dough and blind bake. (Fill with weights and bake until done)
- Cook your filling (eggs, sugar, flavorings, starch, etc) on the stove.
- Cool your filling to room temperature.
- Fill pie crust and top with whipped cream.
- Chill in the fridge.
The main difference between custard pie and cream pie is that custard pie filling is baked in the shell while cream pie filling is cooked on the stove and then used to fill a pre-baked crust.
How Can My Husband Help?
Making this foundation paste and pie should be a zen activity that connects you to fine cooks of days gone by. So, if your husband helps you get into a zen space, he can stay and chat with you while your work. Or he could put some music on for you guys to listen to while you bake.
If, however, your husband doesn’t inspire a zen state while you are baking, then send him away. Ask him to go build you a pie safe, and then you can enjoy your pie time in solitude.
Traditional Coconut Custard Pie: The Conventional Recipes
I’m not going to write the foundation paste recipe up, because there is just too much variability in flour and humidity and whatnot. Know that, if you are well-versed in pie dough making, you can rely on the photo of the recipe above and then just go by feel.
The coconut custard pie itself can absolutely be made with a conventional recipe, and I have written it up for you here. You’re going to love it. The pie is as silky as it is chewy, and vice versa. And the custard mixture can be scaled up or down–you can even bake it in a pan without a crust and cut it into squares. This is the custard of my school childhood that the cafeteria ladies used to make and sprinkle with a bit of nutmeg. Smooth, creamy, not-too-sweet, a bit eggy, and so very comforting.
If you love the sound of this recipe, please rate and/or comment. I love hearing from you! And if you make this pie, and I hope you do, please share with me on Instagram @onlinepastrychef using hashtag #pcorecipe or share it in the Pastry Chef Online Facebook group. I cannot wait to see your version!
What I would do differently: the recipe did not call for blind baking the crust, but if I were on my own, I'd have given it a good blind bake to make sure the bottom crust was crisp. I also would've applied an egg wash to the crust to make it more golden brown and shiny. These are two nitpicky details though. The pie is delicious. Enjoy! Nutritionals calculated based on using 2 cups of whole milk as the dairy. Feel free to sub in half and half for half or all the whole milk for a richer custard, realizing that the swap will have a change on the calories and calories from fat. As an Amazon Associate and member of other affiliate programs, I earn from qualifying purchases.
What I would do differently: the recipe did not call for blind baking the crust, but if I were on my own, I'd have given it a good blind bake to make sure the bottom crust was crisp. I also would've applied an egg wash to the crust to make it more golden brown and shiny. These are two nitpicky details though. The pie is delicious. Enjoy!
Nutritionals calculated based on using 2 cups of whole milk as the dairy. Feel free to sub in half and half for half or all the whole milk for a richer custard, realizing that the swap will have a change on the calories and calories from fat.
As an Amazon Associate and member of other affiliate programs, I earn from qualifying purchases.
Just look how pretty this coconut custard pie is, you guys! I know you want a bite!
Thanks for spending some time with me today. Take care, and have a lovely day.