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Home » Bread » Tangzhong Water Roux Pain au Lait | Perfect Sandwich Bread

Tangzhong Water Roux Pain au Lait | Perfect Sandwich Bread

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Let me show you how to use the tangzhong method to make tangzhong water roux pain au lait, quite possibly the most perfect sandwich bread ever.overhead shot of tangzhong method toast and jam with a knife and blue napkins on a cutting board

If you are a fan of soft, springy sandwich bread, I’m pretty sure you can’t beat the Tangzhong method. I am by no means an expert, but I’ve baked four loaves so far, and I still have a portion of the second one (the first is long gone) that I baked on Friday. Today is Tuesday, and the bread, which has been out at room temperature in a gallon-sized zip top bag, is still moist, springy and perfect for making sandwiches. That’s four days, people. After four days at room temperature, most—probably all—homemade “Western-style” breads would be good for nothing but making croutons.

What You'll Find in This Post hide
1 The Tangzhong Method
2 What is Tangzhong?
3 How To Do The Tangzhong Math
4 Can You Make Tangzhong Starter Ahead of Time? 
5 What is the Purpose of Tangzhong?
6 What Ingredients Are in Tangzhong?
7 Practicing the Tangzhong Method
8 How Does Tangzhong Change Your Dough?
9 Tangzhong Questions and Answers
10 Other Tangzhong Bread Recipes
11 Water Roux Pain au Lait Recipe
12 Pain au Lait using Tangzhong method
12.1 Ingredients
12.2 Instructions
12.3 Notes
12.4 Recommended Products

The Tangzhong Method

In some ways, I feel I’m late to the Tangzhong (or Tang Zhong as I’ve sometimes seen it written) method of making bread. In others, I feel a bit Pioneer-ish. Do a Google search for Tangzhong, and you’ll get 85,500 results. In the grand scheme of Google, that’s not a lot. To put it in perspective, a search for bread yields 218 million hits while a Bieber search results in a whopping 256 million.

To say that Tangzhong is new would be incorrect. Tangzhong, or water roux, is a Japanese technique that was popularized in Asian countries by a Chinese cook book author Yvonne Chen in a book called the 65°C Bread Doctor. The book itself was published in 2007, although the method must certainly have been used in Japan for quite some time. I cannot find any reference to when this method first was used.

Once I read about the method, I knew I wanted to try it. I put it forth on twitter that I was going to give it a go. The supremely talented Stella, of BraveTart, told me that she had used the method, which she learned in a Japanese bakery in Kentucky believe it or not, to develop a very special “kid bread” for her upcoming cookbook.

(And let me just stop here for a moment to reiterate: Stella is writing a cookbook! I can’t wait to get my hands on it, either.) UPDATE: get Stella’s BraveTart: Iconic American Desserts, y’all!)

Stella graciously allowed me to play with her formula, and as it baked the whole kitchen smelled like kid bread heaven. And my first taste? Oh, my! Moist, subtly sweet with a hint of milk, wonderful bread positively screaming for butter and jam or peanut butter and jelly.

I made Stella’s bread twice. You know, just to make sure that I really, really loved it. And yes, I did. I do. But I do like to play as well. So I decided to march off on my own and see how a traditional French sandwich loaf—pain au lait, or milk bread—would fare using the Tangzhong method.

What is Tangzhong?

tangzhong in pan with whiskTangzhong, or water roux, is a mixture of 1 part flour to 5 parts water, by weight, that you stir and cook until the starches in the flour gelatinize and the mixture thickens. This magically happens at 150°F, or 65°C. After covering and cooling to warm, you simply add this tangzhong into your recipe.

Because the Tangzhong is made up of both flour and water, the two most abundant ingredients in bread making, it is added in place of a portion of the flour and water in your formula, not in addition to. So, how much of the total amount of flour in your formula (bread recipe) should be used in the tangzhong? I found this very helpful post by Rose of Simply a Food Blog. She gives a range of between 5 and 10% of the total weight of the flour (although Shoon Yin’s post, referenced below, suggest 11-12%). Then, to get the amount of water, simply multiply the weight of the flour by five. Easy.

How To Do The Tangzhong Math

Let’s say your original recipe calls for 10 oz of flour (for easy math purposes) and 7 oz of water and you want to substitute tangzhong for 10% (again, for easy math purposes) of the total weight of the flour:

  • 10 oz x 10% = 1 oz
  • 1 oz x 5 = 5 oz

This leaves you 9 ounces of “loose flour” (10 oz – 1 oz) and 2 ounces of “loose water” (7 oz – 5 oz).

Whisk together the 1 oz of flour and 5 oz of water and cook to 150°F (65ºC), cover and let cool to just warm. Add the cooled tangzhong to your remaining flour and liquid, yeast and salt and continue with your bread recipe.

Can You Make Tangzhong Starter Ahead of Time? 

The short answer is yes. Make the starter, spread it out on a plate or put it in a bowl, cover it with plastic wrap and refrigerate up to one day ahead.

I would not try to keep it any longer than that as you might start getting some wild yeast fermentation, ending up with more of a sourdough than a true tangzhong.

Bring the starter back to room temperature before proceeding with your recipe.

What is the Purpose of Tangzhong?

When it comes to making soft breads with good keeping properties, what good is water with gelatinized starch in it? Bread is moist because of largely because of water content. The more water, the moister the bread. The longer the water stays in the bread, the longer the bread stays moist.

When you cook water and flour together until the starch granules swell up, what you’re basically doing is forming a gel in which the starches bind or hold onto the water. And since the starches are all swelled up and dealing with the water, the proteins in the flour, glutenin and gliadin which normally bond to create gluten, are sidelined. So, what you are doing when you add tangzhong to a bread is two things

  1. you’re introducing a gel into the dough that will hold onto water far longer than in a standard dough and, even though you’re using the same total amount of flour,
  2. you’re inhibiting some of the gluten from forming, creating a more tender product.

Now, this is not to say that your bread will have less structure. It will just have a protein structure (thank you, gluten) as well as an extra large portion of starch structure (thanks, Tangzhong).

When proteins, gluten in this case, denature (unravel) in the oven and then cool off, they squeeze moisture out and form a sturdy, dry matrix. In bread, this is called the crumb. Crumb is affected by moisture, sugar and fat content as well, but when the moisture wanders off during staling, what is left is the hard protein matrix. Once starches gelatinize and suck up moisture, which is one of the steps of the baking process: “Gelatinization of starches: 150°F”, they don’t let go of it. Water checks in, but it doesn’t check out. So when the starch matrix sets up upon cooling, part of its very fabric is water. Unlike proteins which set up into a hard web–think loofah–starches set up more like a damp sponge. When you make bread using the Tangzhong method, you’re decreasing the amount of loofah structure and increasing the amount of damp sponge structure.

overhead shot of sliced tangzhong bread showing the tight crumb

How beautiful is that crumb?! Tight enough so nothing leaks through but with enough wee pockets to catch pooled butter when toasted or to hold onto mustard or mayo on a sandwich. Perfect.

I knew I wanted to play with milk bread, because the subtle sweetness and tenderness that milk brings to bread enhances a sandwich without overpowering the flavors of your Sammich Fixins.

What Ingredients Are in Tangzhong?

There are no weird or special ingredients in a Tangzhong loaf of bread. The tangzhong mixture is made by cooking together a portion of the liquid (water and/or milk) with a portion of the flour until the flour gelatinizes. Let that cool and then add that into your dough.

overhead shot of ingredients for tangzhong

Practicing the Tangzhong Method

I based my trials on a recipe for wee pain au lait rolls featured in the A Bread A Day archives (blogger and personal chef Elizabeth now blogs at One Hundred Eggs). I applied the necessary Mathematical Calculations, deciding rather randomly that my Tangzhong would contain 7% of the total weight of the flour. I made the Tangzhong with water, substituting it at 1:1 for a portion of the milk. The resulting loaf was quite lovely, but didn’t have the milky sweetness I was looking for. Plus, The Beloved and I both felt that it was just a smidge bland.

tangzhong loaf on cooling rack

Nice, but I knew I could do better.

For the second round, I used milk for the Tangzhong rather than water, basically figuring, “Why not?” I also upped the salt by just a smidge. That loaf? Nigh on to Perfect, I have to say. Since it contained more milk, it browned a bit better than the Round 1 Loaf. There was the merest hint of crisp crackle in the crust that yielded to the milky goodness and tender crumb I’d been seeking. My perfect sandwich loaf.

loaf of tangzhong bread on cooling rack

Hello, Beloved in the background! How gorgeous is this loaf?

Before I get on with the formula for what to me is just about the Perfect Sammich Loaf, let’s talk a bit about how Tangzhong changes your dough so you know what to expect. Also, I found out some other pretty keen information about this technique that I’ll share.

How Does Tangzhong Change Your Dough?

Since you’re inhibiting some of the gluten from forming, in essence you’re working with a dough with an overall lower protein content. And the lower the protein content, the wetter the dough.

High protein flour absorbs more water than low protein flour. This stands to reason since more protein means it needs more water to activate the gluten. And remember, we’ve already made an end run around 5-10% of the gluten by gelatinizing that flour instead.

In short, expect your dough to be stickier than standard bread dough.

This type of dough requires a lot more kneading to develop the proteins remaining so your dough stretches the way it needs to. It needs to be kneaded. A lot. Stella’s loaf required about one minute of mixing (with the dough hook) on low speed and then a good solid 11-12 minutes of kneading on medium speed. The first pain au lait version I made required 1 minute of mixing (again with the dough hook on low), about 3 minutes of incorporating the butter and then a solid 18 minutes of kneading. To say that my mixer was hot and cranky would be an understatement of epic proportion.

Following a tip from my friend Amy on twitter, for round two I let the dough rest for thirty minutes before adding the butter. Then, I kneaded for about 6 minutes, let the dough rest another twenty and then finished up with about 6 more minutes of kneading. This worked out just fine, and my mixer was slightly mollified.

Stella suggests kneading by hand with an assist from your trusty bench knife or dough scraper, but I am just not brave—or patient enough–for those sorts of shenanigans. If you’re feeling spunky, by all means go for it, but know that it could literally take an hour.

bread dough being pulled into a long stretchy piece

You’ll know you’ve kneaded enough when the dough is crazyily extensible and very smooth.If it’s the least bit bumpy looking and/or tears before it forms a windowpane, let it rest a few minutes and then knead a bit more.

Tangzhong Questions and Answers

  • Can you make Tangzhong with other starches?

Yes. I found reference to rice flour tang zhong and corn flour (corn starch) tangzhong here on Samayalarai: Cooking is Divine. I have not tried either method, but since, in the case of the wheat flour, the gluten is taken out of the equation leaving only gelatinized starches, it is my guess that there would be very little difference in the texture of the end products.

  • Can you use Tangzhong in gluten free baking?

Yes. Jeanine asked this question of me the other day. I was able to find a delightful looking  Gluten Free Japanese Milk Bread by Nicole on Gluten Free on a Shoestring through a thread on The Fresh Loaf.

  • Can you use the Tangzhong method with all bread recipes?

I would say a qualified yes to this if a)the properties that Tangzhong brings (longer keeping, soft and springy texture, overall lower gluten) are what you’re looking for and b)you realize that you might need to do some tweaking of your formulas to get them to turn out the way you want. For instance, when using other flours that naturally contain less (or no) gluten—rye and oat come to mind—further reducing the gluten by binding up some of your wheat flour in a gel might not give you enough lift. Also, as some mixed flour dough tends to be sticky to begin with, you may end up with soup. So again, I give a qualified yes to this one.

Here’s a link to Swathi’s (Zesty South Indian Kitchen) Rye Bread made with Tangzhong post. As well, there’s a linky at the end to many other folks’ Tangzhong method bread posts.

  • Is that 1:5 ratio set in stone?

Most of what I have read about Tangzhong is pretty specific. 1:5 is it. But, Stella’s formula calls for a cooked flour starter at a 1:2 ratio: 3oz flour and 6oz water. The resulting water roux has the consistency of mashed potatoes whereas Tangzhong is more akin to pancake batter in texture.

There is always more than one way to skin a cat, and I found reference to several water roux type starters at Shoon Yin’s Recipes, all made a bit differently and all with different ratios of flour to water.

I think one of the differences among these methods is the crumb in the final product. While all of these gelatinized starters bind water and prevent a certain amount of gluten formation, the more flour that is in the starter, the less gluten that is available. So, Stella’s bread, which binds up 18.46% of the total flour in the formula has a tighter crumb that the bread I made in which 7% of the flour was tied up in the gel. The next test? Making the Tangzhong with Shoon Yin’s suggested 11-12% of the flour. I will be sure to update this post with my Findings.

Until then, here is One Fine Loaf of Bread. Enjoy!

Update (yes, already. You’re welcome): I made the same bread using 11% of the flour as the base for the Tangzhong, which in this case was 1.9 oz flour and 9.5 oz milk. Neither The Beloved nor I could detect any appreciable difference in the two breads, although perhaps the 11% loaf has very slightly more boing to it than does the 7% loaf. You are free to make either one of course, just subtract the new amounts of flour and milk from a total of 17 oz flour and 12 oz milk.

Other Tangzhong Bread Recipes

Here are a few other recipes from my site and around the web. The Saffron Bread is lovely, and do check out the other recipes too. You’ll see how versatile this method is. Enjoy!

  • Cornish Saffron Bread
  • Tangzhong Whole Wheat and Rye Bread
  • Cinnamon Currant Tangzhong Bread
  • Hokkaido Milk Bread

Water Roux Pain au Lait Recipe

If you love the sound of this method and this bread, please consider rating, commenting, and sharing. I would really appreciate it! And if you do make bread using the tangzhong method, please share a photo with me on instagram at @onlinepastrychef using hashtag #pcorecipe. I can’t wait to see what you make!

Continue to Content
Pain au Lait using Tangzhong method

Pain au Lait using Tangzhong method

Yield: 12 slices
Prep Time: 2 hours 30 minutes
Cook Time: 40 minutes
Total Time: 3 hours 10 minutes

Classic French Pain au Lait, Tangzhongified for longer keeping qualities and general awesome boinginess. Makes a fantastic sandwich. Makes fantastic toast. It's just all around fantastic.

Ingredients

For the Tangzhong

  • 6 oz whole milk
  • 1.2 oz bread flour

For the Dough

  • All the Tangzhong
  • 6 oz . whole milk
  • 15.8 oz bread flour
  • 4 teaspoons granulated sugar
  • 1 1/4 teaspoons active dry yeast, (from a batch of yeast you know is alive and kicking)
  • 1 1/8 teaspoon (7 grams) kosher salt (picky, but there you have it), (I used Morton's)
  • 3.25 oz butter, , cut into small pieces and allowed to get very soft

Instructions

For the Tangzhong

  1. Whisk together the flour and milk.
  2. Once there are no lumps remaining, cook over medium heat, whisking constantly, until the mixture has evenly thickened and is nice and smooth.
  3. Remove from the heat and...

For the Bread

  1. pour the 6 oz of milk into the Tangzhong, whisking until smooth. This will lower the temperature so you don't have to wait before continuing.
  2. To your mixing bowl, add all the tangzhong/milk mixture and all the rest of the ingredients except for the butter.
  3. With the dough hook, mix on low speed for one minute, or until the dough just comes together. There might be some loose flour in the bowl, but don't worry about it. It will get incorporated in the next step when you add the butter.
  4. Cover the mixer bowl with a lint-free towel (you can leave the bowl on the mixer) and let rest for 30 minutes. This rest (autolyse) allows some gluten to form before you even start kneading.
  5. After the rest, turn the mixer on medium-low speed and add the butter in several additions over the course of about three minutes. The dough will be a wreck--sticky, buttery, messy. Worry not.
  6. Turn the mixer on medium speed and knead for 7 minutes.
  7. Cover the bowl again and let rest for 20 minutes.
  8. Remove the towel and knead on medium speed for 7 more minutes.
  9. Test the dough. It should be somewhat tacky, very extensible (you can stretch it out really easily) and smooth. Check the dough with the windowpane test. If you can stretch out a wee piece of the dough until it is taught and translucent like bubble gum, you're good to go.

This next part is Stella's technique:

  1. Put a mug of water in the microwave and heat to boiling, about 2 1/2 minutes.
  2. Scrape the dough out of the mixer bowl, round it so it's nice and smooth on the top (you may have to lightly oil your hands so the dough doesn't stick to you) and put it back in the bowl. Spray with pan spray and cover with a lint-free towel.
  3. Put the covered dough in the warm and moist microwave--leave the mug of water in there--and let double in size, 45 minutes-an hour.
  4. Once the dough has doubled, turn it out onto a clean work surface--no flour. Lightly press the dough into a rough 9" square.
  5. Fold the dough into thirds like a letter. Then, fold it in half--it will seem an impossible task, but just start at one side and sort of push the dough down in the center of your letter fold and pinch the top and bottom edges together. Keep doing this all the way down the length of your dough. Now you will have a fat cylinder of dough about a foot long.
  6. Roll the dough over (smooth side up) and hold it like a bowed up slinky.
  7. Fit the dough into a pan-sprayed 9"x5" loaf pan so the slinky's ends are down in the bottom of the pan. Then press the dough down a bit to even it out and allow it to sit snugly in the pan.
  8. Heat the mug of water for another minute or so, and spray the top of the loaf with pan spray.
  9. Cover with plastic wrap and place back in the cozy microwave with its little mug friend.
  10. Go ahead and set a rack in the center of the oven and preheat to 350F.
  11. Let the rise until it has not quite doubled in size--it will probably rise about an inch or so above the lip of the loaf pan. This will take about 30-45 minutes.
  12. Once the dough has risen nicely, place in the preheated oven and bake until the loaf is a deep golden brown. It doesn't need any egg wash or anything. The loaf should sound hollow when tapped and the internal temperature will be between 205F and 210F.
  13. Tip the bread out of the pan and onto a wire rack to cool. Let cool at least an hour if you can. If you can't, I'll understand. Your bread will have a better texture if you let it cool first, though. Hot bread sort of turns to mush in your mouth since the starches need to cool down to about 140F to solidify. Cutting too soon can result in smooshed and smooshy bread.
  14. Store at room temperature in an airtight container for 3-4 days. For longer storage, pre-slice, wrap well and freeze. Pull out slices as needed and leave the rest frozen.

Notes

Nutritional Information based on 10 slices of bread.

Recommended Products

As an Amazon Associate and member of other affiliate programs, I earn from qualifying purchases.

  • Escali Primo Digital Kitchen Scale
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  • KitchenAid 6 Quart Mixer
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  • 3-Quart Saucepan
    3-Quart Saucepan
Nutrition Information

Amount Per Serving Calories 226 Saturated Fat 4g Cholesterol 19mg Sodium 286mg Carbohydrates 32g Fiber 1g Sugar 2g Protein 6g
The stated nutritional information is provided as a courtesy. It is calculated through third party software and is intended as a guideline only.
© adapted to the Tangzhong method from A Bread A Day by Moi
Cuisine: French / Category: Bread
If you don’t own a good instant read thermometer, I highly recommend picking one up. It reads temperatures accurately and quickly, and I use mine from everything from sugar work to taking internal temps of roasts, cakes and breads.

overhead shot of 2 slices of toast with butter and jam

And it really does make excellent toast.

I know that was a Very Ton of information. If you are supremely interested in this subject, do read the articles and check out the sites that I’ve linked to. And don’t hesitate to ask questions of me. If I can answer them, I will. If I can’t, I’ll do my best to find the answers for you.

Thanks for spending a (large) part of your day with me, and have a lovely day.

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Filed Under: Alternate Primary, Bread, Feature, Pastry Methods, recipes Tagged With: bread recipes, pain au lait, recipe, sandwich bread, Tangzhong, Tangzhong pain au lait, Tangzhong water roux, water roux

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I’m Jenni, and I’m here to help you be Fearless in the Kitchen! Search for what you need, or give me a shout. I am only an email away and am happy to help you with any baking or cooking questions you have. I’m honored to be able to help. Learn more about me on my About Page.

What Others Are Saying...

  1. dave says

    July 6, 2014 at 11:16 pm

    great article.
    a few questions:
    i love italian boules and french baguette bread.
    is it possible to do with this method?
    suppose the recipe for the artisan/italian bread asks for a temp of 450
    or higher than the tangzhong bakes at 350 as in this recipe which one to pick?
    is the temp lower due to the gelitanization and therefore cooks faster?
    also i notice that the bread dosent seem scored which is done with italian breads and boules and rolls.
    is that not recommended for breads with this method?
    and lastly, for the sake of experimentation with texture, flavor and color would it be ok to use both water and milk or should it allways be water or milk
    i appreciate all your help.
    dave.

    Reply
    • Jennifer Field says

      July 7, 2014 at 12:09 pm

      Great questions all, Dave.

      Yes, you can use this method with almost any sort of bread, even gluten free. Just subtract the amounts you’re using in the tangzhong from the total amounts of flour and liquid. Starches gelatinize at relatively low temperatures (about 155F) so any baking temperature from 325 on up will give you the benefits of tangzhong. I baked this at a lower temp just because I wanted a soft sandwich bread with a relatively soft crust. Baking hot should not be an issue, I wouldn’t think. As to the scoring, you can shape and score your dough however you want. The reason I didn’t score mine was because I wanted a sandwich loaf. I would absolutely encourage you to use a mixture of both water and milk in any proportions to play with color. I would think the more milk you use, the darker the crust. I don’t think there is any chemical reason not to mix water and milk in the tangzhong. I hope this helps. And if you want to get super deep into Tangzhong, check out the tangzhong/water roux threads in the forums over on The Fresh Loaf. I am sure most of those folks have more experience than I do w/this method. =) http://www.thefreshloaf.com/search/node/tangzhong

      Reply
  2. Kelli says

    December 31, 2014 at 10:22 pm

    I wanted to thank you so much for posting this recipe! It’s our favorite! My husbands request when I started making bread is that he would like it to be like store bought. At first I was insulted, but what he meant is that he wanted a light fluffy bread. This has met all expectations! I have changed it up a bit. I use this method for everything, from honey wheat to foccia, we love it! It comes out perfect everytime. I get requests for bringing bread all the time. Thanks again for posting

    Reply
    • Jennifer Field says

      January 1, 2015 at 10:53 am

      I am so thrilled you like it, Kelli! I use the method for other types of breads myself. I’m so glad you’re adapt it to your needs! Continue to enjoy soft, springy bread, and have a very Happy New Year!

      Reply
      • Kelli says

        January 3, 2015 at 5:54 am

        I wated to give the recipe 5 stars but it wouldn’t let me. I just wanted everyone to know I find this recipe worthy of 5 stars

        Reply
        • Jennifer Field says

          January 3, 2015 at 6:42 pm

          Sorry it wouldn’t let you rate it, Kelli, but I’m thrilled you want to give it 5 stars. It’s totally the thought that counts! =)

          Reply
  3. Rosalind says

    January 14, 2015 at 3:43 am

    Can I substitute table salt for kosher salt for tangzhong bread. Thanks

    Reply
    • Jennifer Field says

      January 14, 2015 at 8:02 am

      Good question, Rosalind. Yes you can, but reduce the amount by about 25%. If you have unionized salt, that would be even better, or use a fine sea salt. There are a couple of brands available at the “refular” grocery stores here right by the table salt that you can get.

      Reply
  4. Cat says

    January 18, 2015 at 4:19 am

    Thank you for sharing the method of mixing the bread ingredients. Tried a couple of recipes but none was as thorough as yours thus leading to sticky dough and failed bakes. haha. Thank you for that and now I get to eat delicious bread fresh from my oven.

    Reply
    • Jennifer Field says

      January 18, 2015 at 5:17 pm

      I am so glad, Cat! I wanted to make sure to add enough detail so that folks could use the Tangzhong method with any of their favorite bread recipes. I must say, this white bread recipe is hard to beat for good, old-fashioned white sandwich bread!

      Reply
  5. Caleb says

    May 13, 2015 at 11:40 am

    Excellent recipe. I’ve been making sandwich bread but wanted a reliable tangzhong recipe.

    I don’t have an electric mixer so I will attempt to do this by hand. Any adjustments to the kneading times? Anything I should be aware of when making this by hand? Thanks in advance!

    Reply
    • Jennifer Field says

      May 13, 2015 at 11:54 am

      Oil up your hands frequently since this dough is really, really sticky. Oil your kneading surface too. I’d give the dough a good 30 min rest before kneading, go for 5 minutes, let it rest again and go 5 more. By hand, I wouldn’t be surprised if actual hands on kneading takes about 20 minutes. You could probably cut down on this some by kneading for a total of 10 or so and then resting it in the fridge overnight. Shape from cold but then let come up to room temp and then double before baking. I hope that helps. I’ve never tried to do Tangzhong by hand because of the stickiness factor, but a good autolyse and an overnight in the fridge should help you out. Let me know how it goes!

      Reply
      • Caleb says

        July 7, 2015 at 8:59 pm

        Thanks for your reply Jennifer!

        I actually made this twice before you replied. The dough really wasn’t that sticky and I didn’t need to oil my hands or anything… Sticky dough would be like some of the super-hydrated no-knead doughs. Am I doing anything wrong? I didn’t do the overnight fridge rest, but I can try that the next time I do it.

        The last two times the bread turned out really good… but I dunno, it wasn’t anything like those fluffy things sold in bakeries here in Hong Kong. Just wondering, will the recipe work if I replace the milk with water and butter with olive oil?

        Thanks!!

        Reply
        • Jennifer Field says

          July 7, 2015 at 10:28 pm

          I’ve never had the “real deal” in Hong Kong, Caleb, so I honestly don’t know how these loaves stack up against them. Yes, you can absolutely sub water and oil for the milk and butter. It’s certainly worth a try! Wish I could be more helpful, but since I’ve not had the type of bread you’re trying to replicate, I’m really not sure. You may want to check on the forums at thefreshloaf.com. Those folks are extremely helpful. Good luck!

          Reply
  6. Farha says

    July 22, 2015 at 2:26 am

    Hi,
    Awesome post! Will this work the same when baked in a 9 inch by 5 inch pullman pan. Your recipe says in step 11 ‘Let the rise until it has not quite doubled in size–it will probably rise about an inch or so above the lip of the loaf pan. This will take about 30-45 minutes.’ In the pullman pan will it not overflow?

    Hoping you will guide here! Thanks!

    Reply
    • Jennifer Field says

      July 22, 2015 at 7:27 am

      Hey, Farha. I don’t bake in closed pans, but if you are used to baking in a Pullman pan, use the amount of dough that you would for your regular Pullman loaves. What I would do is adapt your tried and true Pullman recipe to the Tangzhong method–the post shows you how–and that way you’ll be working with a known quantity of dough. If you want to use my recipe as written, you will have to go through a bit of trial and error. Hope that helps!

      Reply
  7. cristina says

    July 30, 2015 at 3:09 pm

    Hi Jennifer,

    Thank you for the message you sent me, I will definitely try this method. I think i will be hanging around here in your website. Reading and trying some of your technique in making breads and baking cakes. I love how you explain things and site example. Keep up the good work. My God bless you always.

    Regards,
    Cristina from Maldives

    Reply
    • Jennifer Field says

      July 30, 2015 at 5:29 pm

      Thanks so much, Cristina! I’m glad you’re here, and I’ll always try to help if I can!

      Reply
  8. Carol says

    January 31, 2016 at 2:03 pm

    This is a great explanation of tangzhong. Thank you. Now I have more questions. I started using this method a few years ago when trying (and failing) to get those soft, pillowy cinnamon rolls from my kitchen. The success of this technique made my day! However, I wanted more. Of course . I tried a butter and flour roux and other fats as well, And I now like the fat better than water and milk. So now I don’t know how that goes with the explaination. The amount of water in butter isn’t enough and there isn’t any water in oil. Do you know? Thanks

    Reply
    • Jennifer Field says

      January 31, 2016 at 3:30 pm

      Very interesting about the fat+flour! I’d love to see the formula you’re using! An off the cuff thought: the fat would coat that amount of flour and tke all of that gluten out of the equation, leaving nothing but “tenderness” in the roux.

      Reply
  9. Joel says

    December 29, 2017 at 4:53 pm

    What lovely, pillowy bread you’ve created! I can’t wait to try it! My passion this year (okay, my obsession) is my new bread maker, and your recipe looks like it could be easily adapted for one. Make the tangzhon on the stove, through every thing into the bread maker and let it do all the work on the dough cycle, do the final proof and bake it in the oven (I just bought a Pullman bread pan for the only purpose of making those lovely, perfectly square Japanese loaves that they use for “butter jam toast” that is ubiquitous in Japanese kissaten.

    The dough.cycle on my bread machine runs 1 1/2 hours, and the schedule breaks down thus:
    Knead 1: 12 minutes
    Rest: 5 minutes
    Knead 2: 8 minutes
    Rise 2: 25 minutes
    (My manual says there’s no stir down, but I’ve noticed about a 1 minute stir down after rise 2)
    Rise 3: 40 minutes
    Do you think this schedule is compatible with your recipe? Or, alternately, I could just use the mix cycle and turn the machine off for the rises.
    Thank you for including the baker’s percentages! I’m just starting to tackle ratios, and it’s so helpful to see them in recipes (or formulas, if you prefer).

    Reply
    • Jennifer Field says

      December 29, 2017 at 6:34 pm

      I have never used a bread machine before, so I honestly don’t know how well the formula translates to the machine. But the rising times sound reasonable. If I remember correctly, the rise time is relatively brief, so my vote is to go for it. And enjoy your new bread machine! Also, do let me know how it goes, Joel. =)

      Reply
      • Joel says

        January 2, 2018 at 2:08 pm

        I’m not sure if the bread machine worked or not, but the resulting bread soft, moist and delicious. It was not quite the crumb that I remember Japanese shokupan had (the shokupan was denser).

        I first converted your recipe to metric (it’s easier for us math-challenged bakers), then developed the formula and scaled it for 1 1/2 lb bread machine. There actually wasn’t much scaling to do. If you like, I could email you a link to the final result (I hesitate to post it here, as I’ve been reprimanded before for self-promotion. I’d be happy to, though, with your permission.

        I thought the amount of butter to be obscene! It made the dough so oily and wet that it was difficult to work. I wondered adding just a tad more flour might make it more pliable? Maybe flour the board? I only ask because I’d love to use to make rolls, but at this consistency, I don’t think my feeble shaping abilities would be up to the task.

        The rise was a bit scary too! But it all worked out. Oh, I did get a “bubble” on the top of the loaf. Didn’t affect the taste, though. And the coffee cup in the microwave is genius!

        Reply
        • Jennifer Field says

          January 2, 2018 at 5:38 pm

          You are welcome to post your results here. I don’t consider it self promotion at all if it furthers the conversation. You’re welcome to cut back some on the butter. I wouldn’t necessarily add more flour since that can impede rise and dry things out, but if you’re looking for a tighter crumb anyway, that might be the ticket. On the other hand, less butter would allow for a stronger gluten structure so maybe that would solve all your problems in one fell swoop! Keep me posted, and Happy New Year! Thanks Joel!

          Reply
          • Joel says

            January 2, 2018 at 7:55 pm

            Happy New Year to you and yours too! May the New Year find you happy, healthy, and prosperous, and may your kitchen be filled with enticing, alluring aromas all year long!

            Here’s the link to the recipe I adapted for the bread machine from yours. I’d be eternally grateful if you’d take a quick look when you have a moment, and offer any suggestions or tweaks. https://tinyurl.com/yb3wqqv6

  10. Eberhard says

    February 26, 2018 at 4:42 am

    Why don’t you people use grams – it would make everything so much easier ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,

    Reply
    • Jennifer Field says

      February 26, 2018 at 11:01 am

      You people? Nice. Thanks for visiting, and you can change all my ounce weights to grams on your scale.

      Reply
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